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The recipes, arranged by seasonal menus and preceded by Sgubin's recollections, run the gamut from Oeufs Toupinal, a simple egg, ham, and potato dish that was served to Hillary Rodham Clinton on a tray, to the dressier Veal Stuffed with Morel Mousse, a dish Mrs. Onassis preferred without the sweetbreads it originally called for. Included also are a hearty shepherd's pie, a favorite of Diana Vreeland; Caroline's much-loved Chocolate Roll; and Floating Island, a John Jr. pick. The company dishes are outweighed by the informal fare, and most cooks will have no trouble preparing either. Sgubin's book succeeds as both cookbook and insider's tribute, showing us a remarkable personality through the food she enjoyed and the people she loved. --Arthur Boehm
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